Cervoles Garnatxa de Cervoles 2018

It would have been criminal to do a box featuring one grape and not feature an example from its homeland. Grenache, aka Garnacha, aka Garnatxa, is from central-northern Spain, and reaches wonderful heights of expression anywhere from Madrid to Rioja to Aragon to Cataluña. Hot, dry, landlocked places do very well with Grenache, which means it can grow almost anywhere throughout Spain’s high desert or dry mountains. 

This Garnatxa comes from Costers del Segre, a region spanning over mountainous areas in Catalunya, a few hours’ drive away from Barcelona. This countryside is dry, sparsely populated, and picturesque. Many vineyards grow on steep mountainsides or stone terraces, many which were originally laid by Roman hands. Because of the barren nature of the land, grapevines need to drive their roots down deep to gather what little water and minerals they can from the meager soil. This makes them work harder, which reduces their yield. But with reduced yield, quality is excellent. These vines produce Grenache grapes with singular character and strong flavors.

Cérvoles, meaning “the deers” in the Catalan language, is a passion project winery helmed by Tomàs Cusiné, an oenologist with more than 35 years of experience at various properties throughout Catalunya. This Garnatxa represents old vines from the best vineyards of the estate, selected from different favorable elevations and aspects.

In the glass this is a bright shimmering pink-purple hue. You can tell there’s baked fruit from the start–that unmistakably Grenach-y nose of baked strawberries and raspberry jam. Fresh chopped cedar wood, crushed stone, lavender blossoms and licorice all come up beside the ripe fruit in this wine, finishing chewy, slightly sweet and deliciously tangy.