Stirm Los Chuchaquis 'Bandido' 2020

Ryan Stirm got his start winemaking at Cal Poly University in San Luis Obispo, but it was only after shifting his focus away from wrestling that he plunged into soil science and agriculture. After winemaking stints in California, Austria, and Australia, he was ready to start his own winemaking project. It wasn’t lab-grade, sterile wine that Ryan was after, however. He was most captivated by wines that reflected a sense of place. Working an internship at Saucelito Canyon winery taught him how to farm and appreciate much older vines, and that’s what the Stirm Wine Co. story revolves around.

The modern story of California’s great success is one of Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay prevailing. These all-star grapes are grown all over the state, and made in a myriad of different styles, from big blockbuster wines all the way to elegant, lifted examples. But lesser known are the grapes planted a hundred or more years ago, often in field blends. Zinfandel was always planted alongside Carignane, Mourvèdre and other accompanying varieties. The Cruse Monkey Jacket is made from Valdiguié, another obscure variety often planted in California’s less-famous coastal valleys. This Los Chuchaquis “Bandido” is made from Negrette, a grape from southern France which used to go by the name of Pinot St-George in the US. 

Negrette is made in and around the region of Fronton around inland, southwestern France. It tends to be a medium to full bodied red that is often blended with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine gives us the chance to taste it nearly by itself. Negrette is deep-colored but not too tannic or angular. It’s a soft and chewy wine with gorgeous floral and candied fruit aromatics.

This “Los Bandidos” comes primarily from the Siletto Vineyard in San Benito County, inland from the city of Monterey. Leading with notes of dried cherries, fig jam and roasted tomatillo, it hits on the palate with a big gush of baked fruit and a rustic, pleasantly grippy finish. Sweet dried herb notes surround the fruit and provide a wonderful savory note.