Didier Montchovet Hautes-Cotes-de-Beaune Blanc 2018

What I love about this wine is that it tastes like village-level Burgundy. To get decent level village wines, say from Pommard, Meursault or Chambolle-Musigny, you're going to be easily paying upwards of $80 a bottle. When I experienced the firm texture, tight acidity and gorgeous tree fruit of this bottling, I thought I was drinking something more expensive.

This 2018 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc from Montchovet is an example of what makes white Burgundy so thrilling. It leads with a nose of quince, golden pear and yellow apple: Not underripe or overripe, they're perfectly fresh off the tree. Fresh hay, white tea and petrichor follow. On the palate this wine snaps like a bite of cold celery, savory and sweet flavors contending for attention on your tongue. It finishes tart but satisfying, with a lasting mineral texture.